Saturday, June 25, 2011

Amsterdam

 On our way to Uganda we flew into Amsterdam, stayed 3 nights, took a train to Brussels, Belgium, stayed overnight, and then took Brussels Airlines, first landing in Rwanda then proceeding to Entebbe, Uganda.


The best way to fly to Africa via United Airline is to fly to Europe then take one of the United Alliance airlines to fly south. In order to break up the trip and go somewhere we wanted to visit we chose Amsterdam.
I must say I loved Amsterdam, home of the Anne Frank museum, Dutch masters’ art museums, many canals, wooden shoes, windmills, bicycles, trams, beautiful men and women, and legal marihuana. We taxied to the renowned Pulitzer Hotel very close to the Anne Frank museum and on one of the main canals. Late afternoon we took a canal trip on beautiful hotel boat that once carried Winston Churchill through the canals and out into the ocean harbor.


The next morning, we walked two blocks to line up at the entrance to the Anne Frank museum.  It was early morning and many people were already lined up but after 20 minutes we arrived at the payment window.  Afterwards, we ate along the sidewalk as it was a beautiful day.  Lots of bicycles, quiet trams, small cars, were in evidence.  The sun was warm and tourists and non-working locals also found a sidewalk cafés that lined the streets and canals. 
Many kinds of boats were in constant motion along the canals and we learned people have boat homes on the water that are permanently moored.  They have all the utility hook-ups that a RV camper has at a camp site.
Those who know me well would assume that I would check out the “brown coffee houses”, and they would be right.  A “brown coffee house” is where you can LEGALLY buy marijuana.  This was quite an experience.  Doing a little on-line research, I learned where the best shops were and found one near the hotel.  The one I went to was not seedy at all.  It did have remnants of 70’s art on the walls but the music was modern soft rock.  Cushioned benches and chairs were provided with a very small cube to set your bong down upon.  The smallest amount I could purchase was a gram and there were several varieties to choose from.  Being cautious, I asked what was recommended and after establishing I didn’t want to get wasted and only want to get high, I bought a gram that lasted the 3 days in Amsterdam.  I lit up about 4:20 PM and came back each day as it was illegal to smoke in the streets or hotels.
We took a fine dining boat trip during our stay which included a trip out to a part of the North Sea.

 After the diner cruise, we walked through the famous red light district where young, beautiful women in skimpy lingerie were on display through small store front windows. What eye candy!

Wooden shoes and windmills are a must to see so we signed onto a small bus tour and visited a tourist place where we saw how wooden shoes are made today. Machines help out a lot but there still is some hand work to be done. The shoes are still very popular amongst the farmers. Wood lasts much better than leather where walking on dampness is common.

We did venture up into the inter-workings of the wind mills and saw that they were very substantial structures made from wood.


Our last day, we walked from our hotel about one mile and went to the Rijksmuseum which was going through extensive renovation. But we saw a fabulous Dutch master’s art collection and some insight into the technique the artists used.

Oh, yes, we have tulips.


We learned that pancakes are very popular in the Netherlands but they are not eaten at breakfast, in fact the very popular restaurant, The Pancake Bakery” is closed until 11 AM. We did have pancakes for lunch.

I was totally impressed with the liberal way of life in Amsterdam. The Dutch seem to be happy people who allow others to accept responsibility for the lives. I mean, prostitutes openly (and tastefully, I might add) displayed and cool places to enjoy a doobie means their minds are in a completely different place than most Americans. I wish we were more like them.


We took a train down to Brussels and stayed and took a taxi to the 5-star Amigo Hotel, one block from The Grand Place public square, a World Heritage Site, and 3 blocks from the famous statue, “The Little Pisser”.
Maison Du Roi (The King’s House)
The Guild Buildings.
The Brussels City Hall
The Grand Place at night.

The Little Pisser.

On our hotel room wall, two copies of Belgium artist Rene Magritte’s art.


We left for our long flight to Entebbe the next day.

Monday, June 6, 2011

Uganda

 President Museveni has been the President for 25 years and just was “re-elected” for another term. Thee opposition leader was attacked by the police when he tried to organize a protest close to the smearing in ceremony. There have been no details about his injuries but “the police sprayed his face and back with pepper spray and tear gas then dragged him face down and stuffed him into improvised seats on the back of a police pick-up truck, the way they do unidentified corpses, accident victims, and armed robbers.” This led to some sporadic violence resulting in some deaths and a crackdown on the media.

All this happened before the AIDS conference here and we have not heard about any further incidents although being ensconced in our highly rated Hotel Serena, there is little opportunity to really judge the temperament of the country.

While Judith was attending her conference, I had an opportunity to take some tourist ventures and I found out that seeing the gorillas was a 3 day event and I would return the day we would leave. So I passed and instead took a white water rafting trip on the Nile and then went to the source of the Nile where the Nile flows out of Lake Victoria.

I was picked up at the hotel at 7 AM and was driven to Jinja, a trek of 90 minutes in a van with a dirty windshield. Along the way I saw hundreds of people walking to work or school or riding in vans that are used for mini-taxis. We were driving against the main traffic flow into the city. Along the way I saw many, many supply trucks, some overloaded with green bananas. They stopped at markets where the market sellers were preparing their wares for display, mostly on the ground. While there are a few “supermarkets” in Kampala, the main place to buy food for the day outside the city and mostly within is at these markets.

I noted that all women wear long skirts. There were no exceptions. This required them to ride side saddle on motorcycles always driven by men of course. And come to think about it, I saw no women drivers of any vehicles. Mind you Uganda is not primarily a Muslim country, but a Christian one where displays of “God is Good” are seen frequently on buildings and on a few of the mini-taxis.


This seems like a perfect place to digress about some very brief Uganda history. When the white man first came to this neck of the woods in Africa they brought in Catholics from France and Protestants from England. The resulting religious politics that were trust upon the king caused no end of grief for him and tried to make a deal with the Germans, but the Germans made a deal with the British to cede several territories to them for exchange for a small but strategic island in the North Sea. In 1893, the Union Jack flew over the newly formed territory called Uganda. England ruled until 1952, then the next 10 years independence was fought for and on 1962 a leader named Obote inherited a nation fragmented along religious and ethnic lines to the point of being ungovernable. Skipping along to 1971, Obote flew to Singapore leaving behind instructions to his army commander to explain the disappearance of $4 million U.S. dollars out of military coffers and his involvement in the murder of a brigadier and his wife. The commander decided his only option was to strike and Kampala was rocked with the news of a military coup led by Idi Amin, a killer with the demeanor of a buffoon. He was responsible for the murder of 300,000 Ugandans and finally was disposed when he overreached and declared war on Tanzania and was driven out of Kampala by Tanzanians and Uganda exiles in 1979.

This should have been terrific news, but most Ugandans now regard the 7 years after Amin’s exile to be worse than under Amin. Corruption and violence continued and eventually the current president Museveni, came to power in 1986 and instead of violence continuing, he was able to establish a Human Rights Commission, established the rule of law, increased freedom of the press, and was able to govern without the past ethnic divisions causing trouble. Economic growth was 10% in his first decade. He established a no party system explaining that Uganda needed stability and the past ethnic divisions would emerge with a multi or two party systems.

I cannot escape the parallel to China here. Both have a one party system whose stability has brought economic growth and a mostly united nation, but a government that has no room for dissention, and periodic crackdown on freedom of the press when criticism is voiced. At least China is wise enough to change leaders once in a while, although just how a successor is chosen is a big mystery. My question is how a successor will be chosen in Uganda and will it be a peaceful transition.

But, back to my rafting trip.

On the way to the rafting place, we crossed the Nile and saw a big hydro-electric dam which supplies most of the electricity to the nation. A short ways away was the sign-in place for the rafting. I explained that I only wanted the ½ day trip and got into another car and 40 minutes later, I arrived at the actual place to embark. Bananas, and hot tea or coffee were available as we waited for others to arrive. A small bus drove up and 11 other people unloaded for the trip. They were mostly Australians with some UK people and 1 small Japanese woman. Two of the men were young alpha males from Australia who looked just the type for ones seeking adventure, but the majority was women who were of the same ilk.

We were instructed to remove all shoes and change into something that would get wet. I explained that I had hearing aids that could not get wet and I placed them into a water tight box that would be securely strapped to the raft. Apparently the leader thought not having full hearing would be a problem should emergency instructions have to be shouted out, so I was relegated to a larger raft where the form of movement along the river would be one man rowing and it wasn’t me. As I was about to protest, the rower man explained that we would be going through the same rapids, so I kept silent and went along with the program. This meant that during the next 2 hours, I didn’t have to do anything physical except to hold on at the appropriate times. I probably could have talked my way into being with one of the other two smaller rafts, but I was satisfied the way things turned out. Each time we went through some rapids and falls, I got thoroughly drenched.

My only complaint was walking barefoot on pebbly ground and up and down steep rocky banks. When I was young I would go barefoot all summer long and my feet would be leathery tough and walking in cindered alleys was not a problem. But now I get foot massages and an occasional pedicure using a sanding board to remove thick skin. If I ever go again, I am buying some wind surfer footies to protect my delicate lower paws.

Look, at my age, I have nothing to prove about how tough I am. It is all about protecting and preserving my body as long as possible.

We went through 3 water falls, the first being the most extreme. Here is a photo of me going through the 2nd fall. I could have purchased 6 photos for $50 but I chose just one, for $10.
At noon, we stopped for lunch consisting of mushroom soup and fixings for a folded sandwich and some soda. We had to climb up a very steep hill, again with bare feet and I was happy to find my sandals waiting for me in the car that brought me. Everyone else signed up for a full day of rafting and I said good bye and left with my driver to return to the sign-in place where I met the van from Kampala.


We then travelled a short distance to the source of the Nile which flows out of Lake Victoria. I got into a small boat and was taken out into the lake a short distance from the river and the official marker of the beginning of the Nile

The trip back took 2 ½ hours, an hour longer than leaving the city. The traffic was horrific. I decided to stay at the hotel and enjoy the beautiful grounds and spa facilities the rest of the trip.

We took Brussels Air back to Brussels in coach and after a 3 hour layover, enjoyed the trip back to Chicago in a laydown seat in Business class for some much needed sleep.

Sunday, May 15, 2011

The Fire

Patricia and I were living in a small, 3 room basement apartment on Wood Street in Ames, Iowa.  It was September 1958, and we had been living there since January.  We moved there after getting married in November 1957 and both of us quit our jobs as dance instructors at Arthur Murray’s and I returned to Iowa State University to complete my studies and to obtain a degree in Ceramic Engineering.
Patricia was 3 months pregnant with our first child.  It was Saturday night and I was scheduled to begin my required Senior Inspection Trip on Monday.   Suddenly we were awoken by commotion from our landlord, Mrs. Weirson, who lived upstairs and I instantly knew the reason, as the smell and fog of smoke was everywhere.  The upstairs was on fire.  We quickly climbed the 6 steps from the basement to the entrance landing of the back door and dashed out.  We were safe.

Then a panic thought entered my mind.  My expensive books I had just bought for the coming term seemed to be at risk.  Of all the things we owned, they were the most valuable possession.  So I ran back down to my study area and scooped up my books. I ran back up the stairs and by that time the fire was had grown a lot and was very much visible in the entry way as it came out of the kitchen above. The heat was very uncomfortable even though I was exposed only for about 3-4 seconds as I plunged out the door, my arms filled with books. A few feet away I dropped a couple of them but I had been so intent on escaping the fire that I didn’t notice it until later where I found them in decent shape but smudged with black ash. They later became a constant reminder of that night.


I had a crew cut then and my hair got singed as well as the hair on my arms. “Wow”, I thought, I just did a really stupid thing. While I have never been in a fire since, I always remember how fast a fire can spread the intensity of the heat and smoke.

The firemen were there almost as soon as I came out the second time and the fire was put out, destroying only the kitchen area. But of course there was some water damage and the smell of the fire was everywhere. Two persons in the second floor had to be rescued from a window.

We were able to pack up some clothes and secured most of our other belongings in my 1950 Mercury. I left Monday for my trip on time and neighbors across the street put up Patricia while I was gone.
My clothes smelled of smoke all during the trip, but no one seems to notice that my hair was a slightly different color on the ends. Boys peroxiding their hair were not uncommon back then, so maybe it was overlooked because of that.

My senior trip included visiting refractory brick companies in Missouri and pottery companies in Illinois and Missouri. We visited Hager Pottery in Joliet, the south works of U.S. Steel in south Chicago, A. O. Smith in Milwaukee, and Maytag in Newton, Iowa. This was my first exposure to the world of big time manufacturing operations and the value of the trip was plain for me to see.

When I returned to Ames after a week, it was plain that we could not continue to live in our basement apartment and I learned of a place just 8 miles away in Kelley, Iowa (population less than 50), in back of a big building that housed the post office on the first floor in front of the building, next to the only other store in town. I remember that the rent was $40/month a reduction of the $60 we had been paying. We had to buy our own heating oil and the added expense of gasoline reduced our savings but we still lived cheaper. We had plenty of room and someone we knew lived in the same building. We burned our own trash outside and we had railroad tracks, just outside, and an occasional train would awaken us in the morning especially when it was cold and the screech of steel on steel would pierce the air. The ceilings were 16 feet tall and the plumbing was very elementary.


Our son, William Joel, was born in March just after a sizable blizzard which closed the roads from Kelley to Ames. Some men arrived at our door step two days before we left for the hospital. They had heard Patricia was on labor and had a snow plow outside to help us get to Ames. Fortunately, the rumor was false, but it was reassuring because I had wondered what I would do, if her labor started.

I remember our place in Kelley fondly, and, looking back, it seemed a perfect place to jump off into a better life for us after I graduated and we moved to Dayton, Ohio.




Monday, April 25, 2011

Taiyuan, Shanxi Province

 As I start to write about our latest venture to China, I am sitting in what looks to be a tea room. At is not yet 7AM and I sit alone with my lap top as a young Chinese woman is vigorously dusting all the lacquered maple tables and benches. The room faces the street within an ancient walled city (a World Heritage Site) which lies within the small city of Jingyao. It is Wednesday and various sorts of transportation whiz by the window, carrying people on the way to work or school including bicycles, scooters, motorcycles, bicycle rickshaws, and an occasional car. The use of motor vehicles is restricted to some degree within the walled city but the restrictions are not clear to me and will, I am sure, remain a mystery. Some young people can be seen jogging which is something not usually seen, along with old people taking their morning walk.

 
After a grueling day of visiting various Tibetan Esoteric Buddhist temples on Mount Wutai we arrived late at our 2 star (at best) hotel, tired from climbing many steps, some at high altitude (10,000 ft) and spending over 6 hours total travel in a mini-bus. Only the great meals kept us refreshed. We rode up to visit 3 temples, all within the same area, starting at the top (the most sacred) and working our way down.
There are 5 temples all together but thankfully we didn’t attempt the other two.  One was clearly visible with no road leading to it, however, there looked to be about 1000 steps from the parking lot below straight up the mountain.  We saw a lot of buildings 400 years old and trees 1500 years old and of course quite a few lamas going about their work of keeping the place running and honoring their considerable prayer duties.  Lots of Buddha statues, which could not be photographed due to their sacredness with incense smoke ready to fill your lungs and give your clothes and hair (if I had any) an odor of which took be back to the 70’s, Janis Joplin, Joan Baez, and tie dyed shirts.  “I love to smell of incense in the morning”, I joked, which went of the head of the young woman with us.
There were 3 things I noticed about the lamas, cell phones, bottled water and sneakers. Otherwise, their clothing and customs have withstood the evils of modern life. Time is the one thing about their traditional life that I can find to honor. I fail to see their contribution to society other than the economic stimulus they now generate from all the tourists that come to see them. I see arcane religious practices and theocratic absolutism. But I digress.

At this point I must point out that your kind and generous hosts selected this site for us to see. Left to our own devices, Judith and I would skip seeing any more temples in China. They are all about the same from our view of life, except that there is always a chance for an interesting photo opportunity, and I did find a few.

This lama is doing the Captain Queeg steel ball exercise.
There is no question that we are deep in the heart of China, away from the 4 and 5 star hotels where English sounds are available, comfortable beds, adequate toilet paper, CNN, orange juice, coffee and an internet connection. We have a traditional Chinese breakfast this morning consisting of boiled eggs, cold cuts, buns, and a hot, rice based soup. Soon after breakfast, an English speaking guide shows up. He has a wide toothy grin and lively dark eyes behind his frameless glasses and I soon find out I can only understand a few words that pass through my hearing assisted ears. We climb into eight person golf cart and off we go through narrow streets and alleys with our driver displaying professional horn blowing prowlness to alert everyone we are approaching with considerable speed.
We de-cart and climb up the South tower of the wall. I am beginning to understand the guide by now and rattles off the usual statistics every guide is required to know about the size of the wall, when it was built, etc. There are several hundred dwellings within the walled city. Our group walks along the wall for about a mile and most of the interest is looking down from the wall seeing the ancient homes and some of the people that live there. Here and there we see solar panels that heat water in a small tank perched on a flat roof. But mostly there is an endless view of dark grey tiled and pagoda styled roofs. Monolithic austerity is the flavor of Chinese life yet to be granted economic development and the impact of seeing it was significant. Our guide took everyone’s photo of holding one of the wall towers in their hand.
We climb down from the wall and walk for a bit through the narrow streets to meet our transportation and see old men thoroughly engaged in a board game involving moving muffin sized discs.
We are behind schedule as some in our group stop frequently to pose for photos in front almost any mundane feature. Soon I become annoyed with this constant need but I try my best to forgive them and dissipate my distain. My camera lens is always looking to capture a good photo and it only captures a few of Judith and me to document our presence for future viewing.
One of the things developed in the 17th century in Pingyao was a banking system and our guide was most enthused to explain the intricacies and the various chambers of the ancient bank. Promissory notes issued had water marks of four Chinese characters, one in each corner, and authentication of a note was assured by holding it up to a lamp to see the water marks. Due to the early establishment of a bank, Pingyao was once a great financial center. There was a small room set aside for the highest bank official to meet with a client and smoke some opium together.


We arrive back at our hotel to get our luggage and a cart takes us to our mini-bus and we drive the rest of the day, except for a lunch stop, to the city of Linfen and after dinner at our new hotel, we check in there. The room had internet, but the mattress was hard and the toilet paper was rationed. Linfen once had the dubious distinction of being the most polluted city in the world but since the steel mill shut down and with some other improvements; we are told it no longer is.


The coal industry plays a key role in the country's national economy. The largest energy resource base in China is the coal base centered on Shanxi province. With its good geographical location, enormous reserves, excellent coal quality, a full range of varieties of coal, and ease of exploitation, it has become the country's largest coal supply base. Many large trucks carrying coal were seen throughout our tours.


The next morning we are off to The Qiao Family Compound. It is massive and castle-like, covering about two acres. It is the former residence of Qiao Zhiyong, the third-generation commercial tycoon of the Qiao family in Shanxi Province. He attained his fortune by running banks, pawnshops and teahouses. The ornate Qiao Family Compound was built in 1756 during the Qing Dynasty(1644-1911). In 1991, a film directed by Chinese Famous filmmaker Mr.Zhang Yimou, named Raise The Red Lantern, was shot here, making Qiao's compound well-known by lots of people.

I saw “Hang the Red Lantern” last spring in a film class, so the images here were quite familiar. The Compound has been converted into a museum and has period furnishings distributed throughout. Visiting here is like looking through a window into the day-to-day life of upper class Chinese of centuries ago.


We travel on to see the Hukou Waterfall, the second largest in China, on the Yellow River. Big rivers enjoy good reputations either for long history or for achievements in fostering human civilization. The Yellow River, the second longest in China, is no exception.


The Yellow River runs all the way from Qinghai Province to the border of Shanxi and Shaanxi provinces, zigzagging to Jixian in Shanxi Province and Yichuan in Shaanxi Province where it suddenly finds its way through a narrow valley. The riverbed narrows from 300 meters to 50 meters, turning the tranquil river into a turbulent one.
It is this narrow path that makes Hukou Waterfall's popularity unequalled in China. The tremendous water splashes on the rocks, causing foam and water fumes that produce rainbows. The water fumes curl upwards, turning from yellow to grey, grey to blue. Local residents give such phenomenon an exact metaphor, calling it "smoke from river".
 

We made it back to Taiyuan after this and the next morning we took the train back to Beijing arriving about noon and we soon were in our room at the Raffles Hotel.  We didn’t step foot out of the hotel for 24 hours as we had no ambition left to mingle, shop, or walk.  We did find some time for a relaxing foot massage in the hotel.  We left for the airport shortly after 1 PM the next day  to catch our 4 o’clock flight home and after flying 13 hours we arrived home about 4 o’clock, the same day to discover Chicago had not yet discovered Spring.

Saturday, March 26, 2011

My Father--Floyd Nathan Herd

 Family Secrets


Floyd Nathan Herd was born in 1913 in Lafayette, IN and why he was born there is still a mystery to me. His parents (Lucian and Cordie Mullins) met and married each other in southern Kentucky. There homes were separated by a mountain ridge but how they managed to meet has been taken to their graves. My father’s grandfather was Andrew Jackson Herd who was a prominent political figure in the area after fighting as an officer in the Civil War on the Union side. My father’s uncles were successful professional people who scattered out of Kentucky as did my grandfather.

However, my grandfather, Lucian who was called L.G., worked as a cement worker, when he could find work, and was an alcoholic resulting in the family being dirt poor. I can remember visiting their very, very modest home which I in truth looked like it was imported from Appalachia. The family lived in poverty. And there always has been a rumor that he left Kentucky because he was caught stealing. I must have heard that somehow either because my mother told me this or I overheard something said between adults that my child ears stored away.

My father’s older sister, by 3 years, went to work for Bell Telephone in Omaha while still in high school to help support the family. Artie Mae always made sure, her younger brother had a clean shirt to wear to school each day, and my mother told me so I know it must be true. Mother and Artie Mae were friends and when I was a pre-schooler she doted on me whenever she got the chance.

My father also had 2 younger brothers and a sister so it must have been crowded home. This probably accounts for my father often displaying his affection towards his siblings recounting stories about them. Looking back now, I realize that he never regaled me with any stories about his parents. I have been told that alcohol was also a problem with both my dad’s younger brother and sister. Perhaps that is why they both died before age 60.

On the few times, I went to my grandparents home, my grandmother Cordie’s round face seemed to always have a warm smile for me, but LG never ever paid much attention to me, even to acknowledge my existence. He always seems intent on all the machinations involved on keeping his pipe lit. His one claim to fame was that he fought in the Spanish-American War. Every Fourth of July parade held in our town, he marched alone as the only survivor of that war, that lived in the area.

Arte Mae was born near Oklahoma City, my dad in Indiana, and Charles, Clifford, and Margaret were born in Council Bluffs, Iowa, as was I. So the family was on the move before they moved to Council Bluffs, but that is all I know. And why did they alight in Council Bluffs? There are secrets in most families and there may be one associated here.

More than twice, I asked my father, what nationality did we come from and his answer was always the same, “we are Americans”. He never said anything about his grandfather Andrew Jackson Herd who fought on the Union side of the Civil War. But the thing that is really odd to me was that I found out his brother, Joseph was in the Confederate Army. I would think this fact would be part of the family lore and talked about on occasion. So I remain convinced that the history of this family was never talked about due to the secrets that needed to remain hidden.

Another thing never explained is why my father dropped out of high school for two years and served in the National Guard, then came back to high school and graduated at the same time my mother did.

In spite of all the environmental disadvantages I have described, and I know there must have been many more that were hidden from me, my father turned out to be a decent man. To be sure, his volatile temper at times, revealed some of what he must have experienced growing up. He was slow to get agitated, but once he did, his patience was extremely thin, and once he started to act out his anger, it was best to run for cover.

My parents divorced when I was 13 which further kept me away from understanding my father. He remarried and helped raise another family. His other son, Clifford Lucian, and I share a common interest in genealogy concerning our family name. I am guessing we both have the same curiosity due to information we never received.

Footnote: Since I wrote this I have found out though genealogy research that my great grandmother Nancy Poteet remarried Nathan McWhorter who moved his family to Lafayette County, Indiana. This explains why my father was born there and the origin of his middle name. The Herds (Heards) can be traced back to North Ireland where an unknown Heard was born in 1665. Conventional wisdom had it that Cordie must be of Irish descent because of her maiden name of Mullins. However, her lineage can be traced back to 1593 and the Ile de France, Paris where the name was Des Moulins.


My Hero

My father was a super athlete. He loved being active and enjoyed being part of a team or a foursome. His high school scrapbook is filled with newspapers clippings where mentioning that Floyd Herd led his team to victory was a frequent phrase although couched in more modest terminology. He lettered in football, basketball, and track and played baseball during the summer. One of his ex-teammates at his funeral told me he was good enough to be a professional football player and mentioned Roger Craig, all round running back for the San Francisco 49ers as a comparison.

I got to see him play fast pitch softball which was the only type of softball there was then. He was manager and second baseman for the Grace Presbyterian church team. The team was part of a church league consisting of other church teams. Anyone that played on a team was required to attend church at least once a month. The requirement seemed to be on an honor system so I doubt that it was rigorously enforced although it did bring some of the team’s members to the pews on Sunday morning.

Dad recruited some non-church goers to play on the team and one of the key players was our pitcher, Hobson or “Hobbie”, to use his on the field name. He was a tall, gangly man with angular features who could do exceptional things with a softball. But he drank and sometimes his performance suffered and we would get wild and start to hit batters and walk them, making the game far more exciting when it happened. Dad played second base and he would go to the mound to settle Hobbie down, and boast him up, which usually worked. Our Grace Presbyterians were always competing against the Reformed Later Day Saints for the league championship and during those games I saw something in my father that helped me become a man and is still part of my character.

The man displayed an intense confident focus during critical moments in the game. He believed in himself and I never saw him display any signs of doubt as he approached the plate. He was a big hitter and once hit 3 home runs in one game. There wasn’t fence in the outfield. People would park their cars behind the light poles to encircle the field and a home run was produced when you hit the ball beyond the light poles and either hit a car or the ball sailed beyond them. By the time the outfielder retrieved the ball, anyone who could run with moderate speed could reach home before the ball got there. My dad was extremely fast though, so there was never any danger of the ball arriving home before he did.

The team camaraderie was always good even in defeat and he his co-manager Winn Phillips were always, always positive with a “we will get them next time” attitude. Given the team really did get them next time meant it was not just an idle platitude and the team was always looking avenge any defeat.

When I was about 12, and the team was way, way ahead, my dad would let me pinch hit once in a while. I got a few walks, but once hit the ball up the middle for a single and got to second base before the inning was over. My dad could not help showing his pride in me.

I also caddied for my dad when he played golf and he always had fun playing especially with his buddies. He always enjoyed the social aspect of the game.

To this day I am always competitive and try to come on top. To me, being competitive is all about focusing mentally, being intelligent, being confident, and trying really hard to win. Accepting defeat or winning graciously builds character. There is no room for sore losers. There may be reason beyond your control why the results were disappointing, but that is part of any sport.

I have always been drawn toward sports and find it difficult to live without being active in something. I owe this to my father. His love of sports certainly did imprint a positive characteristic within me.

The Social Animal


When I lived with my father, there was no TV. And during the evenings reading the newspaper or an occasional “Life” or “Time” magazine, doing a crossword puzzle, or listening to the radio, were the diversions du jour. Book reading was not something my father spent a lot of time doing. He was too restless.

He was far more extroverted than introverted and made friends everywhere. We rode street cars until buses replaced them in the late forties and Floyd seemed to know every street car operator in town. He would grab a seat next to the operator and he engaged them in conversation. He worked as a short order cook and manager for a chain of eateries in Omaha called Harkert Houses which were strategically placed throughout the business districts in the city. Mr. Harkert hired my dad during the depression and I am sure he never regretted it. Dad was smart, hardworking and honest.

Anyway, his job required that he open his restaurant early. We lived in Council Bluffs, which required that dad catch the first street car that ran in the morning, pass the street we lived on, that took him downtown where he transferred to another street car that went over the Aksarben Bridge to Omaha.

His street car operator pals would clank the bell when it went up the street pass our house to wake dad up should he sleep through the alarm clock. About 10 minutes later the car, having turned around and now traveling down the street, would stop opposite our house, although the actual cars stop was about 30 yards away, and wait for him to come out.

I was actual witness to this because I delivered papers in the morning I frequently saw the street car waiting for him. The street car to Omaha was larger. The driver was in front of the car, and in the back was the fare collector who would collect your transfers or receive your money. My father never sat in a seat. He would always stand and talk to the man in the back. Other men would do the same and every day a social club was formed.

At times, I would have reason to be in Omaha during noon and stop in my dad’s place to eat, where I got to watch him cook. Orders would be shouted to him which he repeated out loud and he would throw a hamburger, an egg, or some hash browns on the grill. When the order was cooked, he would set it up on the counter above him and announce the short was ready. He was the personification of action and focus. Kinda like watching him in the batter’s box.

Later he would take a job as a salesman, which utilized his skills of conversation and networking.

To further illustrate how he craved action, he became a referee for high school football and basketball. In fact he refereed two of the football games I played in, discretely offering me encouragement as I broke out of the huddle to trot to my position as end.

He would take me to basketball games and I would go with him the tiny room that was set aside for the officials. Sometimes, he would be booed for one of his calls against the home team, but I always knew he probably made the right call. Ignoring unjustified criticism is another valuable thing I learned from him.

Dad taught me to box, something that came in very handy during my childhood. The competitive nature of sports often brings about altercations and as one that never backed down from trying to win, some hot tempered lads would take exception to some of my actions and throw a punch at me which would start a fight. Truly, I never ever started a fist fight, but could defend myself pretty well and never got really beaten up.

I missed my father terribly after he and my mother were divorced. Perhaps it was the best for everyone, but I will never know what might have been. Life throws things at you and you are forced to make adjustments. I am thankful that I can look back and see the positive things I took from my father. He overcame a pretty tough childhood, found refuge in sports, and became a decent man and father.

Sunday, March 6, 2011

Batavia

We went to Indonesia in December 2010 during the rainy season.   Judith had extensive meetings in Jakarta with her colleagues discussing AIDS prevention research and programs.  After the meetings were over we spend a day going through several museums and historic buildings.  In particular we went to the area where the Dutch set up their governmental offices, near the ancient port called Sudra Kepala.  The Dutch called Jakarta, Batavia.  In this area, there is a restaurant called Batavia.

The first time I came to Jakarta, we ate a group dinner in a back room at this restaurant and I thought it was really a nice place but I didn’t really have time to linger and browse around because we had to climb into a taxi right afterwards.  But this time we ate in the main dining room for lunch and almost had the place to ourselves.  The building overlooks the Fatahillah Square, the Fatahillah Museum, and the old City Hall from the Dutch colonial period.  The furniture and incredible picture collection make this place a feast for the eye and it is topped off by the world famous Churchill Bar on the second floor.  The upstairs “grand salon” is made entirely of Java teak wood.
The waitress removes one of the photos on the columns, turns it over and presents the menu.
The food and service were at best, adequate, but they were a secondary priority.  During lengthy time to have our food served, I took the opportunity to take photos of the photos.  Here is the Churchill Bar, singled out by Newsweek as one of the world’s best bars in 1994 and 1996. 
And down at the end of the bar is a photo of its namesake.

Here are a few more of the many photos I took of famous people.  I am sure I don’t need to identify them.

And this is my favorite…

Even the toilets were filled with photos including one of Mickey Rourke taking a whiz.


We actually visited the museums before lunch, and it appears to be a day where school children from various schools visited museums as a class displaying their various school colors. Some were taking notes, knowing they would be quizzed about what they learned and saw.


This group posed for me and the teachers all rushed to be included.
The first time I came to Jakarta, I was not too happy but I really love Jakarta now. Of course there are still obstacles The airport terminal is old, the immigration lines are long, the baggage conveyors are short, making them crowded, and once you have your luggage, you have to line up in one of the two custom lines where your luggage is put through a scanning conveyor. It seems to me the objective is to get people quickly through this process making any security efforts seem like they have to be cursory at best. Then without out the aid of any clear organization, trying to get a Blue Bird or Black Bird taxi becomes another wait and struggle. These taxes have licensed drivers and metered fare. One should always take one of these taxis in favor the friendly man who wants to grab your bag and put it in his car and charge you 2-3 times the going rate. The going rate is only about $12 USD so if you are used to paying $33 with at least a $5 tip to get to and from O’Hare, you might not even learn that you were ripped off by paying $30.


The ride to the center of the city is long and the traffic is always, always impossible, especially the last one or so miles. Our hotel of choice is the Grand Hyatt.

Once arriving the car must go through a security check before allowed to travel to the front of the hotel. After de-taxiing, all luggage, including hand carried items are again scanned. But once inside our room which has club floor privilege, all becomes good. Some hotels charge way too much for massages and other spa treatments, but we find the prices acceptable avoiding the search for less expensive services nearby. The pool area is outstanding and early in the morning, before the clouds start to build, I was able to enjoy the sun for about one hour each day. The restaurant by the pool area is a great place for lunch and even though the rain would come, the weather stayed warm.

During out stay, we are treated to dine in some famous old exotic restaurants decorated with Indonesian art and artifacts. But what makes the Jakarta so enjoyable are the warm and friendly people. There are about 200 million people in Indonesia comprising about 300 different ethnic groups and 500 different languages. Fortunately English is widely spoken, especially in the cities.

I realize that most Americans have a much distorted view of Indonesia. However, we look forward to travelling to more places within the country. There are so many different forms of paradise to enjoy for a few days here. If only we could wean ourselves from Bali once in a while.