Our First Trip to China Oct '03-Part I

I am about to post travelogues of all our trips taken together to China beginning with the first one in Oct 2003. We had been to China separately in the mid 80's long before we met.

When I worked and lived briefly in Hong Kong in 1986 (before HK was part of China again), a group of us from our company flew into Beijing to present our proposal to partner with China to build color picture tube facilities. We landed in the early evening at the old airport were met by some minor officials and driven to the Peiking Hotel. At that time cars drove only with their parking lights and the car heaters were not used in order to save gasoline. There were very few cars on the road, most bicycles, and the air was heavy with coal dust and fumes. We traveled once again to Beijing where we celebrated what we thought was an acceptance of our proposed agreement and dined at the Great Hall of the People then visited the Great Wall and Ming Tombs. But that is another story.

So 17 years later, the changes that had been made in Beijing were really remarkable. At the time we came back in Oct. '03 were didn't know that we would be back several times, so we planned to see and do a lot. This is Part I of the journey.

















We fly to Changchun from Beijing in Jilin Province (on the big map look in the upper right, blue colored) and arrive in the middle of the afternoon. No one is there to pick us up. We have a name and a phone number and no Chinese coins. It is a very small run down airport and no one seems to speak English. There is pay phone but no coins. We sit outside and wait for about 40 minutes and then decide to try to phone. We find a non-pay phone but the lady wants money anyway. She dials the number for us after some significant hand signals and talk to the man. He arrives about 30 mins. later.

Turns out he has the wrong information, or got the wrong information because we arrived day before he was expecting us. We stay the night in Changchun and head off to Jilin City via van on a new super highway with hardly any traffic.

Jilin City, the 30th largest city in China, is in Jilin Province as sits along the Songhua River. It has a population of 4.25 million. It is being developed as a tourist area, especially for winter sports. There are several skiing areas and an ice skating faculty up to international standards we are told. But I doubt the transportation and lodging facilities would make it an attraction for foreigners. This area (north of North Korea) is part of what was once Manchuria, and was occupied by the Japanese from 1931 to 1945. The Japanese built a huge dam in the 30’s along the Songhua River and the hydro-electric system associated with it supplies 83% of the power in the region.








Being so close to Korea, the area has many tourists from Korea and Korean influences can be seen in many places. During the Korean War, China and the Soviet Union were close allies and the Soviet style of architecture can also be seen. Indeed, if you look at a map, you will see that Vladivostok, Russia is very near.

Koreans consider dog meat a treat and this influence is strong in Jilin Province. We dined every meal with the officials of the AIDS conference and were treated to a wide variety of regional food. As I explained to our hosts, 20 years ago to Americans, Chinese food was only associated with Chop Suey (which does not exist in China and never did) and only recently have we understood there are many regional food favors in this large country. A typical Chinese meal is displayed on a large lazy-susan in the center of round table which is intermittently, slowly moved along as people reach with chop sticks to take what they want. Having traveled briefly in China (1986) I then tried to sample everything that was put before me, so the various food consistencies were not a total surprise to me. So, now, when I looked a plate of what looked like fried beetles, I politely let it go pass as I reached ahead for something else. I saw something unknown, but more associated with what I consider to be normal food, like roast pigeon, braised fish head in hot and sour gravy, or deep fired pig’s ear. Turns out I was correct that they were beetles, elegantly displayed I might add, but a bug is a bug. I did eat dog meat however. I didn’t think it was so grrreat though and I certainly didn’t “woof” it down.

There are some very striking things I have noticed so far. First, we at a HIV/AIDS conference in China and the last time I was in China, Sexually Transmitted Diseases (STD’s) were almost non-existent. In 1992, Deng Xiaoping drastically accelerated economic reforms and economic growth has been staggering since then. I found the growth amazing. Gone is the welfare state, which fostered laziness and carelessness, as well as the omnipresent revolutionary slogans which appealed for social solidarity. Now, its every man for himself and everyone is encouraged to make money and get rich. Advertising slogans have taken over and everything is for sale including women and children. Prostitution flourishes and drugs are a significant problem. As a result AIDS and other STD’s has risen to the point the government can no longer ignore the potential economic impact. The outbreak of SARS, which scared a lot of people but killed relatively few, caused significant economic impact for all of SW Asia as well as Toronto, Canada. The potential damage from AIDS will be staggering before prevention education and behavior modification take place to bring this pandemic disease within an acceptable level of deaths, as it has in the U.S.

Here’s the thing. Chinese are heavy smokers (it appears they raise a lot of tobacco also) and they have no regard for wearing seat belts in their cars. I ask myself why. These are also serious health issues. Is it because they haven’t felt the consequences of ignoring these issues severely enough? I look to the how these issues became issues in the U.S. and the governmental quasi-government groups and private pressure groups that raised the consciousness of our citizens. Least you believe that our National Government is free of ideas and actions are our detrimental to our country’s health issues, I can supply many examples to the contrary. Supplying condoms and clean needles to some segments of our society not only would be cost effective but would save lives and stop the spread of HIV/AIDS. Indeed, it is quietly being done is some communities, without fanfare so as to not raise the hackles of some self interest groups. I will avoid naming these groups in order to maintain my tranquil composure, so I won’t mention the religious conservatives.

China also has organized crime and is heavily polluting the environment, by the way, just to present a more complete picture of the conditions here. People dress better, eat better, look better, own cars and (creating huge traffic jams). All the benefits and afflictions of western life are present mixed in with a huge amount of organized crime and officials’ corruption.

We see many farmers in the fields harvesting their corn and rice crops my hand and many examples of the new China and old China living side my side. Once their farms become modernized, their will be hundreds of thousands of people will be looking for work.

The Chinese have been very gracious hosts to us and their kindness is genuine. We arrived here the day they sent their first astronaut successfully into space. There economic expansion is now at a tremendous rate. Some enterprising people are becoming rich. There is no doubt in my mind that China will be the next superpower. Along the way, I predict the democratic reforms will take place, although probably slowly and not to the degree we enjoy in the U.S. Also a factor is that India is now building its infrastructure and U.S. jobs are moving there, where democracy exists. The Chinese have freedom to travel and to consume, but there is no freedom of expression.

We visited the house of a man who has AIDS and he contracted it by giving blood for money. The blood takers took the plasma and put the reminder into a community pool and injected the blood back into the donors so they would be able to give blood again more quickly. So one person with AIDS infected many. This was not an uncommon practice. The man to Judith's right is Professor Xu, a man we will see many times in our China travels.















We visited the Beishan Park behind us, home of the Temple of the War God and the Pavilion of the Jade Emperor. It rises 650 feet and the view at the top allows a great view of the city. And yes, we walked up and down.


















This group of teenagers wanted to have their picture taken with us.












We were taken to visit a very nice high school and we had a camera stuck in our face as we walked through the grounds like we were some VIPs The students were outside during their group exercises.







Then we were taken to a group of students studying English and they asked us questions in English and we in turn asked them questions about themselves. I got the email address of their teacher so I could sent this picture to her, but the Chinese government blocked it. We really enjoyed the exchange. They were so excited and not at all like the picture below. I suppose they thought they should look like serious students.














We were put up in a hotel formerly used to house government officials. The twin beds were very hard and the heating system would automatically turn off after an unknown length of time. We were anxious to leave.

Thailand Addendum

One place to visit in Bangkok is a crocodile farm where they raise them for various reasons, mostly hide and food related. When you walk in they give you a little packet that contains stuff to apply under your nose much like you see on TV when autopsies are performed. The smell of crocodile poo is quite foul.

There is a crocodile show of course with the highlight shown below.

In Chang Mae, we visited an orchid farm and bought several real orchids pins and necklaces that had been laquered into jewelry. This was a major part of our Xmas shopping. They are very beautiful.

I am standing on the Bridge Over the River Kwai. I wouldn't be surprised if this little nook in the bridge was created so tourist could have their pictures taken without being run over by the train.

We took the train ride on tracks that many gave their lives building under their cruel Japanese masters though farm land and scenic vistas until we came to the River Kwai again. This is a resort and it appears that you could stay in one of the floating cottages seen on the right.



Ayutthaya is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The ancient capital was founded in 1350 by King U-Thong and it was from here that the Siamese ruled their Kingdom for 417 years. This is just one of many of these structures here.

When we went up the "River of Kings", the Chao Phraya on the Mahohra Song
we saw several interesting things.

Thailand

When flying to Asia from the U.S., one must past the International Date Line, at which time there is the maximum time difference between Chicago and the date line. It is also the next day. The further one travels west from the date line, the less time difference there is between Chicago and where you are. We flew from Chicago to Tokyo and arrived (after 13 hours in the air) 14 hours ahead of the time we left. After waiting 1 ½ hours to get on the plane to Bangkok, we flew an additional 5 hours, to arrive only 12 hours ahead of Chicago time. Now you might think that this means we were half way around the world, but according to the longitude system, we were about 400 miles short of being half way around the world from Chicago.

Bangkok

We arrive very late at night, which means the traffic is light and we arrive at our Marriott Resort Hotel on the Chao Phraya River, one of the main rivers that flows through Bangkok. We have a great view of the river and garden below from our balcony. All photos are expanable.

Next Morning.

Our arrival to Thailand was one week ahead of the International AIDS conference and the first thing on our agenda was to travel about 50 miles up the river to the ancient capital of Ayuthaya on the Song Manorha, a restored 50 year old, 50 foot rice barge made of teak and rare woods, the most luxurious vessel on the river. There were four cabins, one which was empty so there were 6 of us, 5 Americans and 1 Canadian. One couple Jim and Helen lived in Bahrain, Saudi Arabia where summer temperatures of 120 are normal. No wonder they travel during this time. However, the temperature and humidity in Thailand are comparable to Florida and Jim’s shirt was always soaked through. The other couple, Kevin and Martin, were from San Francisco and they were great guys. We had one thing in common in that we both booked this trip as a result of reading about it in the book called “1000 Places to See Before You Die”. Like most cruises on board time was mostly about eating great food and drinking gin and tonics, and fine wine. I gained 5 pounds while in Thailand.

We did get off the boat a lot to see various temples and markets usually with a guide who managed to usually talk too much as we stood in the heat

I found that viewing many of the temples from the river was just fine as they looked more exotic from a distance and there really comes a point when enuf’ goes through your head.

Below is The Temple of Dawn or Wat Arun as it is otherwise known.

This is one of the best known temples in Bangkok and dates back to the ancient Ayutthaya period. The tall, elongated central Khmer-style tower is surrounded by four minor towers, which symbolise Mount Meru, the earthly representation of the thirty-three heavens. Here you'll find pavilions containing statues of the Buddha at the most important stages of life. The beautiful architecture and fine craftsmanship mark Wat Arun as one of the most remarkable temples in Thailand.

It was a super experience and the various sights, food, drink, and friendships made for a wonderful experience. Below is the 6 of us at the restored winter palace at Ayuthaya.

Kevin, me, and Martin riding elephants.

Upon returning to Bangkok, we rested that night then flew to Chang Mae in northern Thailand. We again arrived late and traveled through narrow streets that looked like alleys in some cases until we arrive at the Riverside Inn. It was a small hotel right next to the river, no TV but that was fine, kind of a bed and breakfast place. We had to walk two short blocks from the hotel to one of the main streets where we usually caught a tuk-tuk for transportation. Now I have to tell you, I think the tuk-tuk’s are great. First of all, the word is descriptive as all get out. This is the noise you hear when you are standing still waiting in traffic. A tuk-tuk is a two seated motorcycle taxi and they can move in traffic much faster than a car than as they swerve and squeeze into any traffic cranny possible.

We saw many things in the Chang Mae area. Chang Mae is near the “Golden Triangle” where Laos, Thailand, and Mayamar (Burma) come together. This name is symbolic of the importance this region is to the economies for all three countries. For centuries, the opium produced in these countries was brought to the ‘Golden Triangle” where traders from Europe and elsewhere gathered to buy.
We saw many things in Chang Mae, from orchids, to native villages. But without a doubt, the most amazing thing I have ever seen was elephants painting pictures with water colors. Real pictures, which were taken to the shop, and sold. The shop was doing a very good business. At first, I was too stunned to realize what I was watching. But as I saw what was happening, I ran down and took 3 photos. Here is the first and the third, so you can see part of the sequence

The elephant first painted two stems, then leaves, then red and yellow flowers, all where they were suppose to be. Sure the trainers, handled paint filled brushes to them, but I could see the elephant looking at the picture to make sure things were going where they were supposed to go. The elephant is a sacred animal in Thailand, they are given very elegant names, and the Thai people were constantly telling anyone that the Asia elephant is much smarter than the African elephant

Then we flew back to Bangkok in time for the AIDS conference. Judith has a project involving obtaining PhD candidates to come to UIC to get there degrees and AIDS knowledge to take back to their countries. The countries are China, Chile, Indonesian, and Malawi..

We took a tour to the river Kwai, subject of the 50’s film “Bridge Over the River Kwai’ (starring Alec Guiness and William Holden and was quite a good movie at the time) walked over the bridge then took a long railroad drive through the country side, following the river much of the time. I learned the events in the movie never happened. The steel bridge was finally rendered inoperable hit a bomb from a plane late in the war. The Japanese wanted a railroad between Thailand and Burma so they made prisoners and local men build the bridge giving them little food and no medical help using primitive equipment and methodsThe railroad is called the “WWII Death Railroad” and ten of thousands died during the construction, including many Australians and Englishmen.

We also took several foot massages at less than $10 per hour had a tailored sport coat made and generally had a great time. The trip home was long. Thankfully, we flew Business Class, but even so, it took 21.5 hours sitting in a metallic tube, watching second run movies and eating, always eating.

Skiing in Wengen/Touring in Vienna-Part II

Vienna (Wien)

Most of us on the trip went on to Vienna.

We stayed at a hotel across from the subway with easy access to most of the center of town and the main tourist attractions. Internet access was free and the breakfasts were much better. We ate dinners out at various places within small groups of us. The subway was on an honor system and I ended up purchasing each ticket separately from a machine.

The first thing I wanted to see was the Vienna Boys Choir. I had purchased tickets in November and asked if others if they wanted to join me and took the first 3 volunteers, enough to fill a taxi.

So first thing Sunday morning off we go, arriving early with a seat in the front row. I was pretty ignorant of the format and overall was disappointed because my expectations were entirely out of line. We were told that no photographs are allowed but when the boys come down to the front photos are allowed.

So I sat through a high catholic mass spoken in German/Latin for 90 minutes listening occasionally to some religious music from the recessed third balcony behind us. The Boys Choir was invisible for the entire 90 minutes. Meanwhile I squirmed in my seat not wanting to be rude by sleeping or reviewing my camera stored pictures and watched the assorted costumed players move through their all too familiar roles with the enthusiasm of robots. Occasionally, a bell would be rung or someone would enter with some swinging incense burners or liven things up. My companions turned out to be catholic so I am sure their experience was better than mine. Okay, the Boys Choir were singing their hearts out and they sounded great but their was nothing to watch. Nothing!

Finally, at the very end of the service they matched in front of us and sang one number. It was a thrilling moment.

Afterwards we visited the
Museum of Art History
(Kunsthistorisches) which
opened in 1891 under
Emperor Franz-Joseph and
houses the Hapsburgs'
formidable art collect. Several
famous painting are exhibited
here but two of my favorites
by Pieter Bruegel are "The Peasant Wedding" and

"Hunters in the Snow"

These are the stairs leading up to the art galleries and museum restaurant, showing the museum itself is quite a work of art.

The next evening, armed with 3 new companions for the night, we went to the Kursalon, built in
1865-67 in the Renaissance style. It.s one of the most splendid buildings in Vienna. We dined to a four course dinner before the concert then went up to the concert hall where we were entertained with a medley of Strauss and Mozart complete with opera singers, ballet dancers and a vigorous virtuosic orchestra. We heard waltzes, polkas, and operatic melodies.

For me it was easily the best evening of the trip.


What is necessary to complete a three night stay in Vienna? How about an opera?

This is the interior of the Vienna Opera House. Eight of us went to see the opera "Tosca" by Puccini. Thankfully, the libretto was provided in English at each seat. However, some of us were in the cheap seats and the sight lines were terrible. Any action on the right half of the stage could not be seen without standing up and leaning forward, but like I said, we were in the cheap seats. Only we didn't know when we paid our money that it would be like this. Probably some of the arias were known by real opera buffs, but once I get past "Carmen", "Madam Butterfly" or "Aida", I am at a loss. It.s a big hole in my cultural appreciation, but something I can live with. Still I am glad I went and experience the opera house and the smartly dressed patrons promenading around the refreshment hall during intermissions.

But, to me, an absolute mission was to see the Freud Museum. (Click on picture to see details.)

Freud and Einstein were two people that brought great change to the 20th century, but their impacts are not fully appreciated. I think this is
evidenced by the fact that no one wanted to go with me to find and see the museum.

The Freud Museum is his actual his living quarters, library, and office. I took two subways and four blocks of walking guided by helpful directions of locals to arrive at this narrow street and Berggasse 19.

Freud set up his medical practice here in 1891 and practiced and wrote his findings until he was forced into exile by the Nazis in 1938 at age 82. Freud.s immediate family also left Vienna including his daughter Anna, who went on to become a noted psychoanalysis herself and was instrumental in the Freud Museum being established. Freud.s brother and 4 sisters were not allowed to leave and were eventually killed in concentration camps.

In 1896, in his paper "The Actiology of Hysteria" Freud first used the term Psycho-Analysis. The goal of psycho-analysis is to uncover what is unconscious in mental life. It provides a self awareness on how experiences in childhood development years drive adult thoughts and actions.
I say without any embarrassment, that my experiences in psycho-analysis helped me become a much better person. At a pace that was right for me, I was able to release past emotional pains, which then changed my thinking and allowed me to choose better options on how to conduct myself. It also brought to consciousness that most of world "acts out" their buried pains in a variety of self destructive ways. So George W. Bush (and many other world leaders, present and past) here is my advice to you-----

Freud's couch.

Skiing in Wengen/Touring in Vienna-Part I

The skiing highlight of the trip was having a wine and cheese party/lunch at the Piz Gloria, a revolving restaurant sitting on top of a mountain. From the top of the Schilthorn, at almost 9,842 ft (3,000 meters) altitude, you can admire Switzerland’s most breathtaking 360º alpine panorama. The Schilthorn was transformed into the "Piz Gloria" for the filming of James Bond.s "On Her majesty’s Secret Service." Dramatic views of snow-covered mountain peaks and the modern aerial cable way gliding all the way to the mountain summit impose an awesome background.

This was taken from the Tram on the way up. It was a clear day as you can see and the views were great. To the left you can see the way to ski down, which I did (twice). Most took the tram back down.

We stayed for 2-3 hours.

The first two days we were at Wengan, it was warm and sunny, near perfect ski conditions. One day it snowed. We got wet, couldn't see but somehow managed to find a family owned restaurant/bar near the bottom of the mountain where we hunkered down for the rest of the afternoon. Overall though, the ski part of the trip was less than perfect. Walking, cog trains, buses, and trams were all involved to get to all three skiing areas. Toting skies and poles and walking in ski boots takes energy best saved for skiing. The buses were crowded and difficult to be comfortable on. Although trains were on time, we always seemed to just miss one requiring a wait of 10 minutes or longer. Our hotel was up a steep hill and the food at dinner time was not good and their internet charges were ridiculous. I never carry my skies to Europe finding it much more accommodating to rent the latest new skies to try them out and also to avoid the problem of having too many bags for one person. Luckily the rental shop had overnight storage of skis and boots (with driers) near the tram and cog train. At a fee of course.

Wengan is the home of one of the World Cup Downhill races (the Lauberhorn), and a couple of weeks before our arrival, Bode Miller won the event catapulting him to the top of the World Cup overall standings. But of course, no one in the United States would ever know that. The town of Wengan sponsored a GS race while we were there with the start of the race beginning at the Lauberhorn start gate.


The picture on the
left is the Lauberhorn course with the Eiger Mt. in the background .

Three of us signed up for the race and we came out of the start gate, like the one to the right . Our course ended at the first bend to the right. We finished 4th, 5th, and 6th with me at 4th, just out of medal range.

Later as we went down the rest of the Lauberhorn course, there was a speed trap I jumped into my best tuck and I went through it at 83 kph which converts to 50 mph. I was flying.

Most of the people in the trip went on to Vienna. See part II.